DRESSING UP TO SEE THE END TO FAST FASHION THIS CHRISTMAS

By Rachel Sterling

It’s that time of year again. The aisles are full, shelves are stocked, and queues are stretching out the door. Christmas time, or prime time for consumerism as it could also be known. Whilst Christians take time out to celebrate the birth of their Lord Jesus Christ, others simply try not to wince as they look at their diminishing bank balance.

Why has the season of comfort and joy become a source of stress for so many? Whilst finding the perfect Christmas gift for our loved ones is a source of great stress for us in the West, Christmas may signify something very different for garment factory workers in the Global South. Thoughts of piling up orders, overtime, overproduction, and underpayment spring to mind in order to meet our Christmas needs. This is not written to merely insight guilt. After all, who doesn’t love receiving thoughtful gifts and spending time with friends and family? In recent years however, I’ve been giving more and more thought to where my clothes come from. Who made them and what were they paid?

I’ve been closely following the #payup and #whomademyclothes campaigns. According to sources like Apparel Action Tracker many fast fashion brands have not paid their workers for orders they cancelled over lockdown. Therefore, they worked for free. This can be construed as modern-day slavery. At Christmas, we may feel that we desperately need that new Christmas jumper or party dress, or perhaps lounge wear is more appropriate for our current time. However, I think it’s vital to question how our consumer choices are impacting others. Do we need more stuff this Christmas? If, over lockdown, so many of us emptied our closets of clothes and things we no longer needed or used, do we really need to replace these with more of the same?

I wanted to respond to the temptation that Christmas brings to “buy, buy, buy” in a new way this year. Myself and a group of friends from my Church St Michael le Belfrey in York are part of a group called Belfrey Social Justice and we participate in Dressember. Every year hundreds don a dress or a tie every day for the month of December and get others to sponsor us to raise money for anti-human trafficking charities such as the International Justice Mission. These charities are actively working to see an end to human trafficking in our lifetime. As fast fashion is one of the main contributors to the modern-day slavery industry, it felt like a really simple way to respond. We actively encouraged participants not to buy new dresses and ties. Instead, we borrowed each other’s and then found ourselves asking why we didn’t do that all the time. It’s a lot cheaper than buying new ones!

We have also been reflecting on Sarah Lazarovic’s Buyerarchy of Needs. I fully maintain that this needs to be a societal shift and large-scale companies need to be held accountable and change their ways of overproduction, fast fashion, and modern-day slavery in their supply chain. However, as the consumer, I think we have a role to play too. If we believe our own Christmas customs are feeding these industries, then we need to look inward and see where we also could change our Christmas habits.

Image by Sarah Lazarovic

Image by Sarah Lazarovic

Here are my top tips for a fast fashion free and generally more ethical Christmas:

Don’t buy what you don’t need.

Avoid joke presents that will likely end up in landfill.

Don’t buy from any of the companies that have yet to #payup for their cancelled orders. See the Apparel Action Tracker.

If you want to gift something special, consider edible gifts and experiences.

If you are limited by time or other factors and need to buy things, consider supporting small local businesses and BME owned businesses.

Support the #Dressember campaign!

If in doubt, consult the Buyerarchy of Needs!

 

 

OUTDOOR RETAIL MARKETS – PAST, PRESENT AND POST COVID

By Jay S Khan

On 23rd March, the Government announced strict ‘lockdown’ measures in order to contain the spread of the COVID-19 virus. Part of these measures included the closure of all markets except for stalls providing essential items such as food stuff. 

On Sunday 24th May, the Government made a further announcement stating that Markets can begin to re-open from the 1st of June. However, markets were only permitted to re-open if it was safe for them to do so and subject to social-distancing measures being put in place. Following this announcement, Councils up and down the country had 1 week to prepare, design and execute their plans of re-opening, instilling a fair degree of panic to most Councils, Market Managers and Operators. For some this would be relatively straightforward, particularly smaller markets who operated in open spaces where social distancing measures could be implemented easily. However, for many others such as Walthamstow Market, the longest outdoor street market in Europe, Portobello Market in Kensington & Chelsea, and the Broadway Market based in Hackney, this proved to be a significant challenge. 

Markets are a place of rich diversity and culture and even though the market landscape has changed somewhat over the last 40 years, they can still be considered as the heart of a town. I am sure there are many like myself who have memories of our parents reluctantly dragging us to a market, Ridley Road Market in Hackney in my case, for shopping on a hot Saturday.  Looking back as I write this article however, those are some of my fondest memories and ones that I will treasure for many reasons.

Image Ridley Road Market - Selina Seesunkur

Image Ridley Road Market - Selina Seesunkur

The point is that markets can leave an everlasting impression, and I certainly can’t really recall any fondness in going to a supermarket to buy fruit and veg in the same way I do with markets.  Markets paved the way for many entrepreneurs to make it big in the commercial world, most notably people like Sir Alan Sugar.  Markets are not only a place of thriving commerce but a place where you are likely to bump into old friends and foes alike, catching up and perhaps even resolving disputes, such was the magic of markets.

Of course, this was all pre-internet. Online retailers such as Amazon allow you to buy clothes at the same retail price as you will find in a market, if not less. The same can also be said of the larger chains such as Primark, where you also find the added comforts of a changing room, the warmth and the sacred returns policy.

Markets of today already face significant challenges, particularly with the change in consumer buying behaviour through internet shopping, and the large retail outlets can benefit from economies of scale and sell products at huge discounted prices, leading to the gentrification of local areas. The last thing they need is to get kicked while they’re already down due to COVID-19 and everything that comes with that.  But it is not all bad news as Markets have finally been recognised for the value they provide as a retailer, with leading organisations such as NAMBA being able to challenge government thus allowing them to apply discretionary grants to get them through the impact of Covid-19.  

On a lighter note, one can only imagine what Del Boy would have made of COVID-19 and its accompanying restrictions. You can just picture him sending out Rodney to Peckham Market to sell face masks with holes cut out exposing the mouth, or face shields that are not see-through, claiming that they are military grade issued!