HOW NEW IS YOUR WARDROBE REALLY?

By Abigail Isherwood

Most of us have experienced walking into a highstreet clothes shop, through the big glass doors into the air conditioned room full of rows and rows of textures and colours. This is usually accompanied by a sense of newness, but when we pick out a pair of jeans, it hasn’t just appeared on the shelf out of thin air. It has come from somewhere, it’s made of something, by someone. The fashion industry, the way that pair of jeans gets to the shelves in the first place, has an incredibly large impact on the world. Did you know that:

  1. Textile production contributes more to climate change than international aviation and shipping combined and the fashion industry is responsible for 8% of carbon emissions.

  2. Three out of five fast fashion items end up in a landfill.

  3. Washing, solvents, and dyes used in manufacturing are responsible for one-fifth of industrial water pollution and fashion accounts for 20 to 35 percent of microplastic flows into the ocean

  4. The textile sector still represents 10 to 20 percent of pesticide use. and the fashion industry is projected to use 35% more land for fibre and textile produce by 2030, further threatening biodiversity.

  5. Forced, bonded, and child labour are all forms of modern slavery that are prevalent within the fashion industry.

  6. 93% of brands surveyed by the Fashion Checker aren’t paying garment workers a living wage.

We know that fast fashion is unsustainable and we desperately need change in the industry as a whole. We need everyone to act, from policymakers, industry leaders, and retailers, to us, the consumers. Although we may feel powerless, individual action can make a difference.

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So what can we do? Jennifer Darmo from Good On You says that “by thinking of the garments we wear as short term tools rather than long term investments, we contribute to wasteful consumption patterns that inevitably lead us towards drastic climate change”. One of the first things I do to get out of this ‘short-term’ mindset is to remember that whatever I am buying isn’t really new. It was grown, picked, sewn, dyed, transported and packaged long before it arrived at my door. It has gone through a process and contributed to a system that results in the heavy impact demonstrated above.  

Just as one item of clothing contributes to a huge impact, you, as a human being with a voice, have a huge impact too! Especially when combining your voice and action with the action of others. Because we are not living in isolation from each other, despite the year we have just had. We have an incredible power and impact on the people and the world around us. And when we put our mind to something together, when we decide that it’s time for us to change, it truly can change. 

So when we’ve just heard that the IPCC report is calling the climate crisis a code red for humanity, and we’re probably feeling overwhelmed, helpless and a thousand other emotions that come when facing this crisis, let’s remember that we don’t have to do this alone. We can surround ourselves with people and voices who inspire us to keep going. The people who help us change our shopping habits for the better, who remind us how to stop supporting fast fashion, and keep us feeling creative and excited about the new sustainable lifestyle that we are building together. 

Now more than ever is the time to lean on each other and find those little sparks of hope that drive us to take the next step forward.

THE EVOLUTION OF MAKE-UP WITH REFERENCE TO BAME SKIN

By Pauline Lewis

When we scour the shopping centres today, we are spoilt for choice with the array of make-up brands available.  Brands are wide and various, offering us so many choices of sizes, colours, and quality that we can often become overwhelmed by what is on offer.  

However, this can sometimes not quite be the case when it comes to BAME makeup.  Make-up has evolved generally and really has grown up, but make-up for women of colour is sometimes found to be a few shades behind.  

The reason might lie in the history. The first time Immigration into the UK began in any significant numbers was during the 1950’s and 60’s.  At that time the world was a very different place. The UK was the head of a much larger Commonwealth than today.  Many countries who were former colonies had not yet claimed independence from the UK, whilst countries such as Ghana, India, Jamaica, Mauritius, Nigeria, Zambia, and many more gained their independence around that time. The make-up industry had been designed to serve a market which did not include women of colour. ‘Barbie’ and ‘Cindy’ dolls were white skinned and blonde or brunette.  All of these factors led to there being a status quo and stereotype of what “beauty” was defined as.  That definition did not include women of colour and this was reflected in the make-up counters around the UK.

The good news was that brands started to come through that catered for darker skins.  One of the earliest brands available in the UK was Flori Roberts, an early US brand. This was swiftly followed by US brand Fashion Fair. For the first time there was a mainstream brand taking space in concessions around the UK alongside the more established mainstream brands such as Chanel, Revlon, Estee Lauder, Max Factor, and Rimmel.  This was an exciting time for women of colour, and many other beauty industry benefits began to follow.  In keeping with economic trends, competition ensued in the form of other mainstream companies bringing out makeup ranges aimed at diverse women. 

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Revlon launched a range for women of colour, expanding their range of foundation colours to suit darker skins for the first time, which led to a steady climb in women of colour “firsts”. According to research, in 1970, Revlon became the first cosmetics company to feature a woman of colour, Naomi Sims, whilst Beverly Johnson became the first Black woman to feature on the cover of Vogue magazine. These ‘firsts’ opened the door for models such as Tyra Banks and Naomi Campbell to become leaders in the fashion and beauty industry.  We have also seen other industries benefitting.  The actress Lopita Nyongo became the first woman of colour to feature for beauty brand Lancome in 2014, and former Miss World Pryantha Chopra endorsed beauty brand, Obagi in 2019. 

The result of these milestones was that the cosmetics counter changed.  In the old days only cosmetics that supported the stereotype image of beauty were to be found. Barbie was the archetypal stereotype and everyone, regardless of their own colour, was expected to use her colours.  Light Brown to Dark skinned women were wearing pale pink lipsticks and American Tan tights. When the former US First Lady Michelle Obama asked for a gown to wear to meet the Indian Prime Minister in 2010, she was offered a gown described as the colour ‘nude’. This sparked a controversy about what ‘nude’ or ‘flesh coloured’ really meant. Little girls from immigrant communities across the UK were introduced to Barbie with the message that she was the ideal to aim for. The message was universally reinforced with school paint palettes referring to the beige paint as ‘flesh’ coloured, and almost all leading ladies on TV being blonde including children’s cartoons.  

Today, we have brands who cater exclusively for women of colour, the leading ones being Fenty, Bobbi Brown, Mac and Nars.  We also have brands who cater for all skin colour including Revlon, Rimmel, Dior, Covergirl, Lush Makeup, Estee Lauder and Yves Saint Laurent. The landscape looks much better than it was. Despite our great progress, obtained at great cost to those who have been the change makers, we still need to aspire to equal consideration for the needs of all.  This must include women of colour to the same extent as everyone else.  We all need to aim to reach a goal where not just women of colour are the ones who complain about finding the right shade or colours.  We all need to be in the same place, with everyone catering for everyone.

MINDFUL FASHION - DO YOUR BIT

By Selina Seesunkur

London Fashion Week went digital last week however like me, many of you will have found that lockdown has meant working from home living in comfy clothes, with the days of hair and makeup a thing of the past. Wearing PJ bottoms whilst on Zoom with a relatively professional top on, whilst hoping that you do not forget and stand up for everyone to see, has become our new normal.

But for others like my youngest sister, makeup goes on no matter what! And her sense of style both in and out of the house is second to none. One thing we all share as people return to work or even continue working from home, is that Covid has given us a chance to reassess our wardrobes.  

According to the UN Conference on Trade and Development, the Fashion Industry is the second biggest polluter in the world, with textile dying being the second biggest polluter of water. Fast Fashion, which is quick and cheap to produce has been said to be a key contributor to a number of the environmental problems faced within this industry today.

But is the answer to simply stop shopping at Primark and H&M? What else can be done to help? 

Repair

Spending more time at home means we can re-assess our wardrobe. How many of you discard an item because there is a hole in the armpit or the hem on your trousers has come loose? Why not try to repair these items yourself or, if you do not know how to sew, find a service which will offer to repair clothes for you. Many will even collect and return the items to you. I generally take mine to my local dry cleaner.

Clothes Swap

Once the Covid restrictions have been relaxed, why not host a clothes swap party with your friends. In my area, the North London Waste Authority (NLWA) runs the scheme Wise Up to Waste and, prior to the Covid restrictions, they hosted several clothes swapping events in our area. In their ‘Wise up to Waste’ brochure they state that “The average household spends £1,700 per year on clothing- if we take a bit more care over our wardrobes, we could save both money and the environment”

Return

If you purchase something and it does not fit, return it! Don’t leave it laying at the bottom of the wardrobe gathering dust, only to buy another item that fits. But if you really want to create some space, shops like John Lewis and H&M offer a buy back service where they ask customers to return old clothes bought from them in return for an amount/ percentage towards another item in that store. Don’t forget you can also sell your wears on eBay or Shpock.

 Second Hand September

It is not too late to join Second Hand September, the idea is to pledge to only shop second hand for 30 days or more. You’ll give clothes a longer life by keeping them from landfill, and by shopping with Oxfam, you’ll be reinvesting your money to help the poorest people on the planet earn a fair living and beat poverty.

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Repurpose 

Finally, think of different ways you can use your clothes or fabrics in your home. At the peak of Covid, people were making scrubs out of old duvet covers and facemasks from scarves.  What can you do? I chopped up a skirt and attempted to make a top! I have not given up improving my sewing skills, it is a lot of fun and I’ll probably try chopping up a few other items in my wardrobe

If you do repurpose your clothes please share your ideas with us on Facebook!